Magnus Launch Control Device

“The worst kept secret in Drag racing”

“The Driver mod”

“Drivetrain saver”

“The slipper”

This is the ultimate in Diaphragm style clutch management.  We’ve all seen people who cannot get their car launched consistently, and then we watch videos of all these racers who are getting it done time after time.  How do they do it?  They are all running the Magnus launch control device.

Everybody who has been racing long enough knows that dropping the clutch is a sure way to be picking up a whole lot of parts at the starting line, not to mention making you inconsistent as a drag racer.

The Launch Control Device also known as a “clutch slipper valve” was originally developed by 9sec9 and after seeing its success, we decided to give it a try in our race car. We were extremely impressed with how well it worked! What the device did was relieve all the effort that was needed to properly slip the clutch. This allowed us to be a lot more consistent and make it through a number of events in one piece. The adjustability in the Device allowed us to adjust the amount of slip needed as conditions changed based on track and weather. This kept us consistent and more focused on driving the race car.

The built in line lock is used only when launching the car. It is bypassed when you are off the 2-step button so there is no clutch slippage between gear changes.

List of frequently asked questions FAQ

• “what is the difference between the Pro Version and the Standard version?
• The standard version is used for regular “loose surfaces” like a regulars unprepped street
• The Pro version is used for tight well prepared racetracks as found at drag strips all over the world
• How do I set it up on an ECU? We usually set it up to be on a master power switch, then “normally on” then above 30 mph to turn off via ECU tables
• How do I set it up if I have a stock ECU?  We normally install a microswitch that is only on when the shifter is in 1st gear, as soon as you pull the shifter out of 1st gear the Launch control device will now be off and clutch will operate as normal
• My launch control device makes my clutch super hard and doesn’t seem to work properly?  Make sure the screw is not fully closed, it will not work this way. Also make sure you have not installed it in the wrong direction and are on when launching
• Make sure you flush all contaminants out of your system and install new clean fluid
• How do I know if I have Pro or STD version? As of 2022 Pro is Gold colored adjustment knob STD is Blue knob.
• How do I get a good base adjustment? Start by watching some of the posted video’s you want to be somewhere around that timeframe of clutch release a good rule of thumb is .2 – .3 seconds for a tight track .4-.6 seconds for the street.  If the clutch is slipping too much when you are testing STOP, no use wearing out the clutch if its a bad setting.
• Will this wear out my clutch? Yes of course it will, but it wont break any drivetrain parts.
• How do I “Stage”?  Normally we will feel for the clutch engagement point, you want to be just before clutch engagement, or right when it begins to drag a bit.   Hold your clutch in that position,  rev engine to launch RPM, and engage Launch control device.  When ready to GO, drop the clutch by fully taking your leg off the clutch.  It will slowly release at the speed you have preset it Being too far below the engagement point or right at the floor will cause too much delay and hurt your reaction time.  Remember to be right at engagement point

Currently in its 4th revision after almost 20 years of use the latest “pro” version is the one to have it is the finest in control and able to make you the most consistent, have a look at the datalog in the images to see how consistent be pass after pass.  The pro version has the widest range of operation and the finest control with a stainless steel body.

Installation tips

A mighty vac must be used in order to bleed the device correctly. Bleed the LCD with the switch on and with the switch off multiple times until device it is free of air and functioning like a normal clutch when not energized. Should only be activated through first gear. Can be ecu controlled with a standalone ecu or through a micros witch on first gear. Should not be on through 2nd gear. 

Our recommended clutch lines comes in 24.75″, 36″ and 48″s to make connecting your Master Cylinder to Slave Cylinder seamless for Mitsubishi vehicles.